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Tag Archives: Laos

Holy Basil Redux n = 2

July 18, 2013Restaurant Reviews, Seven Caesars, Sydney CBD2013, Curry, Dinner, Food, Holy Basil, Laos, Thai

Holy Basil – A Thai Delight

September 16, 2012Eight Caesars, Restaurant Reviews, Sydney CBD2012, Dinner, Food, Holy Basil, Laos, Spicy, Thai

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I'm Still Hungry - A Food & Travel Blog by Michael Shen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
Based on the work at https://imstillhungry.net

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Hakone Day 1: rain rain, go away, come again another day. Our final day in Kyoto started out clear, with a final breakfast at Lorimer (first pic only), a hip, raw-concrete uni-student-crowd kind of place that does seriously tasty ichiju-sansai/gosai set meals. Just don't get too hung up on the 45min wait should you choose to go (you've been warned). After we said our goodbyes to the old capital, sunlight slowly - then suddenly - became a scarce resource, and then we never saw it again.
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So we definitely didn't get our wish on the rain, but the timing couldn't be better, as we spent much of it at Hoshino Resorts' KAI Sengokuhara in the Hakone resort region. No two ways about it: this was nearly a luxury lodge-level stay, perhaps the best of 2019 after Wolgan Valley. A full breakfast and kaiseki dinner is served every day (which is VERY good), and even the base room - the equivalent of a suite at most other hotels - is larger than many apartments. There's also a private onsen pool overlooking the mountains, and it demonstrates its connection to local art (which is a strong drawcard of Hakone itself) by allowing guests to colour in (or for the brave, draw one from scratch) a tenugui - a Japanese hand towel. I probably don't have to mention it but even the usual attentive service that's easy to take for granted in Japan is taken up a notch. Is rain really a problem when you don't even want to leave?
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Hakone was one of the worst-hit regions during Typhoon Hagibis, but other than the local trains being out of commission, I'm impressed and glad for its residents that it appears to have recovered so quickly. That's Japanese tenacity for you. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Kyoto Day 5, part 2: quality time with Bambi...and getting head-butted by her cousins. It's my first time in Nara and yes, the deer do bite and the deer do bump. Those on Miyajima Island are much better-behaved; I certainly won't be buying a bundle of senbei next time I'm in Nara - there's something a little frightening with a horde of full-sized deer chasing you! One small plus is that the deer do bow! 🦌
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Dinner was at Onryōri Hiwatashi (back in Kyoto), a kaiseki restaurant firmly steeped in tradition. If you read up the structure of how traditional kaiseki is conducted and the kind of food served, Hiwatashi is pretty much a textbook reference. Dishes were expectedly good - though there's the typical 'Kyoto blandness' that's associated with 'true' kaiseki. An alternative view is that nuance is subtle, but you can draw your own conclusions - definitely one for kaiseki adherents. Interestingly, they only take one sitting per meal time, which only means two parties a day! I'm not sure how much of a margin they can make on what is effectively private dining, but it's certainly a unique experience to be the only guests in the entire restaurant. Quintessentially Kyoto, perhaps.
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So there you have it - Uji and Nara can both be done in the same day! That said, would not recommend. So tired. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Kyoto Day 5, part 1: greetings from Uji. Everyone knows it as the Mecca of matcha, and that it truly is. This is where household names (if the household is home to matchaholics) such as Tsujiri and Nakamura Tōkichi have their hontens, so some serious shopping was done (and recommended). It's no joke that we have an entire suitcase dedicated only to matcha goods. 🍵 🍃
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We had matcha soba (amongst a ton of other solid eats) for the first time in over 5 years from a waterfront restaurant called Aiso, though I still think putting green tea into noodles is more for the look than anything else. I also took a quick refresher course on how to make matcha - the proper way, though it's still a little hard to tell where the 'face' of a matcha bowl should be. If you know what I'm talking about well, you know. Still, I think I'm all set to chanoyu the heck out of my tea-brewing routine upon my return to Sydney.
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In the midst of all this matcha madness, don't forget to visit Byōdoin Temple! It's on the ¥10 coin so come on, you should at least visit what literally the most impressive example of Heian architecture. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Kyoto Day 4: matcha soft serve w/gold leaf - as you do when visiting Kyoto's golden temple. Don't let the gimmickry fool you - this was a really good soft serve given its strength. The extra generous sprinkling of powder on top really took the bitter umami to new levels.
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Kinkakuji itself is like much of the rest of Kyoto's famous tourist attractions: a human zoo. Pics 2 and 3 is a classic 'expectations vs reality'. If you go, be prepared to politely elbow your way through the masses. Unfortunately, for attractions like Kinkakuji that aren't open 24/7, there is no such thing as off-peak.
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Lunch was a super-casual, super-crushable bowl of Hakata-style ramen (Miyoshi) which didn't even break $10AUD, yet was one of the best bowls of the style I've had. Dinner was at Gion Uemori, a shop that specialises in tofu. If you thought tofu is only for vegetarians think again - Japan stands a good chance at changing that perception. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Kyoto Day 3: monkey business 🙊. Iwatayama Monkey Park never gets old because really, how does one ever get tired of those adorable red butts? Oh yeah, Arashiyama - you're okay too. By the way, if you want to get a shot of the Bamboo Forest, learning Photoshop is easier than rocking up at 5am in the morning. I did neither, hah.
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Lunch was at the reservation-only Unagi Hirokawa. It took me long enough in ticking off the unagi checkbox, but here we are! If you're planning a day trip to Arashiyama and intend to eat here, don't forget to reserve - I had to make mine over a month in advance!
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Dinner was a more casual affair - wafu-style (Japanified) pasta at Kokona in Kyoto Station itself. I've forgotten just how satisfying it is to try fusion food that's actually successful in concept & execution. My recommendation? The soy milk carbonara. Serz. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel #wafupasta

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Kyoto Day 2. The classics, as usual. Unfortunately, while Kyoto's momiji is nothing short of stunning (mum couldn't stop gasping), Kiyomizu-dera had other plans. I've never seen it covered in scaffolding before, which is a shame as I've also never seen it surrounded by so much colour, but it just means a return trip is in order: I'm sure you'll all agree the scene looks stunning all the same.
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Breakfast was at Kishin Kitchen, and it's one of those places where just because it's the first meal of the day doesn't mean it isn't taken seriously: there are hourly sittings for a classic Japanese 一汁三菜 (ichiju sansai - one rice & soup, 3 dishes) breakfast. Would recommend if you're looking for something a bit more traditional - a taste of Kyoto, as it were.
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We also had traditional Japanese sweets (和菓子 - wagashi) at Kagizen Yoshifusa's Zen Cafe spinoff, another very traditional experience, albeit in a modern cafe setting almost resembling a contemporary art museum. Sweet tooths: I highly recommend looking more into this. Another quintessential Kyoto experience.
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Lunch was delicious soba at a hole-in-the-second-floor-wall Izakaya (さかえ - Sakae); I had baumkuchen cake for the first time (yeah, I know); dinner was at a very dressed-up, but ultimately mediocre yakitori-ya called Kazu (which ironically means 'one'). Gosh, now I know why my blog posts are so long - even these summaries are chokkers and reveal no detail, I feel! #ISH_Travel #ISH_Japan

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First day in Kyoto (#ISH_JapanDay 5). Oh man, when did it become a town of tourists (see stories)? 2016 may well be in another decade, given how much this quaint city has changed. But look, it's fine - I'm part of the problem and we're all going to have to acknowledge that world-class destinations are going to get the attention they deserve - ironically perhaps at the expense of everyone that's not involved in the tourism industry.
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Great food though, as always. Got my first cremia of the trip, for one. Followers from the last decade - err I mean 2016 - know that this is my favourite soft serve of all time (yeah haters gonna hate that it's available almost as commonly as maccas). There's also a superbly crushable 'I can't believe there's no meat!' vegan ramen from Kyoto Engine (there are non-vegan options too - both are excellent), and a whole bunch of succulent seafood snacks from Nishiki Market. Tourist Tings, as it were.
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Our accommodation was noteworthy - The Thousand Kyoto (hah, take that Kyoto Century Hotel *childish snicker*) opened up just this year, epitomising Japan's understated, modern luxury touches the country's high-end properties are known for. It's still got the frivolous touches though (like the floating sculpture at the entrance), and I hope they consider moving away from single-use toiletries. Sounds like a sponsored post I know - I honestly wish it was so I could have saved a bit of dosh on this trip LOL. #ISH_Travel

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Temple stays at Kōyasan (the primary mode of accommodation) are known as shukubō (宿坊), which is traditionally how pilgrims do it after a long journey. All shukubō in Koysasan include half-board (i.e. breakfast & dinner), which is quite the cultural experience, though a concession must be made if you're a carnivore - it's all shōjin ryōri ('Devotion Cuisine'). Expect lots of veg, tofus, mushrooms with not a speck of meat in sight.
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Now I know I did say 'concession' but I don't really mean it - despite the austerity, shōjin ryōri is quite elaborate, and at an 'I can't believe there's no meat in it' level of deliciousness. It's the kind of meal that vegetarians should be using as an example to convert the masses. But of course, that's Japan for you. If you don't like tofu or vegetables...well I'd say tough luck, but to be honest you probably have bigger problems to worry about.
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Our temple stay was at Ekoin, one of the oldest temples in Kōyasan. Definitely the best I've stayed at of my three visits here. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Day 4 was spent at Mt Kōya (高野山 or Kōyasan), a temple settlement which is the seat of Japan's Shingon (esoteric) Buddhism. It's one of the most sacred places in Japan and also one of the most beautiful. You don't have to be religious to feel the kind of zen that few other places can provide: truly a mountain retreat. One of my favourite places in Japan. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Rounding out the Osaka street eats were a pair of sweet potato & red bean taiyaki. Unlike memories of Dotonbori past where these stores were plentiful, taiyaki was surprisingly difficult to find this time round (anyone wanna try explaining?); I couldn't even find a single store selling the more 'exotic' croissant-yaki (wow, 2016 was a long time ago).
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We also had pork & char siu buns from Horai 551, which mouthwateringly delicious - as expected of an acclaimed chain. However, I'd recommend skipping the char siu (if you're from China, you're not gonna be impressed) and focussing on the standard pork bun (豚饅). Just a tip.
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Dinner was a meal from an intimate 5-seater curry house/izakaya (Yakumido) run by an English-fluent barkeep. Naturally, the conversations flowed thick and fast - certainly, the most 'interesting' meal of the trip made more so by that greatest of social lubricants (curry or sake? 😂 😂 😂 )
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Final pic: a picture-perfect view of Osaka Castle. Truly, I can't get enough of autumn in Japan! #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Japan Day 3: part 1. Of course there was going to be another part when it's Osaka we're talking about. I did the 'right' thing and scoured Dotonbori top to bottom, revisiting all the classics. Takoyaki, fresh crab sticks, toasty chestnuts (lol, thanks mum), juicy gyoza, chewy dango and crunchy, refreshing melon pan. A surprisingly tasty new entrant was the ostensibly gimmicky kobe beef ramen, which was really just a really freaking tasty noodle soup that happens to be served with some Kobe beef. Can't complain, it's actually probably the best thing there other than the takoyaki. More to come. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Japan Day 2 Part 2: le food. Again, playing the tourist card meant free rein, which in addition to being liberating, it was also - being Japan - a relatively low-risk move. We only had one meal - udon - at Okayama (およべ), which was one of those times when extraordinary was not a requirement for satisfaction. It's a low bar for something like udon to clear for it to be delicious. Curry, mixed veg & tsuke-udon variants kept things interesting!
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At Kurashiki, we stumbled upon a cafe specialising in tamago-kake-gohan (TKG - yes it's actually an acronym), as well as sweets (有鄰庵). I opted for an inoshishi (wild boar - yeah wow) version in which the meat was average but the rice was godlike after mixing in the specially-smoked & soy-infused yolk and liberally doused with TKG sauce. Like man, we're just talking about rice, yolk and sauce - back to basics never tasted so good! The desserts comprised an amazake (a low-alcohol sweet sake) zenzai, and a rather cute 'shiawase (joy) panna cotta'. It actually tasted even better than it looked.
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In terms of locality, Kurashiki/Okayama is known for its peaches (not in season so couldn't get any) and muscats. It may be one of the few instances where spending nearly $30 for a bunch of grapes is justified. We also got a soft serve with muscat compote & muscat sparkling wine - and while they were also quite good, nothing beats the supple, candy-like flesh of the real deal. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Japan Day 2 is split up into two separate posts - momiji (autumn foliage) scenery is too beautiful to be overshadowed by food. 🍁
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Day 2 was spent in Okayama and it's neighbour Kurashiki. These lesser-known cities give a glimpse into another side of Japan beyond the 'big three' metropolises. Kurashiki's historical Bikan Quarter is the place to be at, dotted with traditional Kurashiki-style buildings bisected by a canal that's unabashedly instagrammable. You only need to spend a day here, but it's one well-savoured in the slow lane and learning a bit of history while you're at it.
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Okayama is home to Kōrakuen, one of Japan's three great gardens (the other two being Kenrokuen in Kanazawa and Kairakuen in Mito), inarguably requiring its own stop. Okayama Castle forms the backdrop to this fastidiously, beautifully maintained space, with momiji forming the spectacular icing on the cake. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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It's now my seventh time in Japan, but it's never the same experience. That's Japan for you, but it's also what you choose to take out of it. For me, it's been some time since I've had to play the tourist card - I have to say it's quite refreshing.
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We started off day 1 spent supping ramen at Haneda Airport at 6am (hah, it's never too early) while waiting for our flight to Hiroshima. The flight there was short, yet yielded an sublimely ethereal view of Mt Fuji.
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At Hiroshima, we had hiroshimayaki (as you do), which is okonomiyaki made with a noodle base as opposed to flour. Wasted words if I said it was delicious, right? We then spent quite some time at the Hiroshima Peace Park and the hauntingly tragic Peace Museum, a mandatory location for all travellers. I've been three times and it still gets me - never again.
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Dinner was at a 3-Michelin Star restaurant called Nakashima, a solid if imperfect showing of Hiroshima's locality. Pictures of that at another time.
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This is my first time travelling in Japan in autumn, and as such my first time seeing momiji (autumn foliage colours). Breathtaking stuff - and dare I say it, would make sakura season blush. #ISH_Japan #ISH_Travel

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Hand-picked blue swimmer crab, lasagne sheet, saffron beurre noisette. Quite possibly one of the best bites of pasta one can get in Sydney. Well, if you have an invitation.
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It looks like a lot but it's over all too quickly. It looks heavy but the airiness of the burnt butter is anything but. Absolutely sublime. #ISH_Cavalier

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We always complain about how quick a year goes by, but the reality when it comes to the hiatus of one of Sydney's more exclusive dining experiences is that it couldn't end quickly enough. Cavalier's reputation as a cafe that excels at being different is well-established - but its foray into invitation-only dining as a form of 'thank you' to its loyal customer base was unprecedented.
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Finally, round 2.0 is back and the part comfort food, part boundary-pushing cuisine formula is being tweaked evermore. The black onyx sauce w/celariac and duck fat challah are still some of the best mouthfuls of food I've eaten this year; the duck prosciutto w/cold-pressed yuzu rockmelon is as smart as it is challenging; and the 3-day aged blue eye in a fermented herb sauce & gooey chashu should be turned into a bowl of ramen - it would compete with Sydney's best. Most of all, I'm so glad that handpicked blue swimmer crab w/blanket-like pasta is still on the menu - new and improved with a saffron beurre noisette from a family contact in Iran. Mad.
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Another post tomorrow because it doesn't all fit into one set 😂 (and I guess it deserves a 2nd post 😏) #ISH_Cavalier

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I'm Still Hungry - A Food & Travel Blog by Michael Shen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on the work at https://imstillhungry.net