When I asked for the menu describing the meal I had just finished at Kichisen, head chef Yoshimi Tanigawa politely chortled – “it’s all up here” he said, as he gently tapped his head with a single finger. A profound demonstration of Kaiseki’s core tenet, where dishes ebb and flow with the seasons, never settling, was the key message I took from this. Welcome to Kichisen – an apogee of Kaiseki and Japanese food in Kyoto.
Category Archives: Restaurant Reviews
With a two week trip to Tasmania in the twilight days of December, the (primarily downhill) roller coaster that was 2016 concluded with good company and thankfully, adequate sleep. Nevertheless, I still managed to find time prior to the Tassie trip in gorging on far too many cakes and other sweet things in Sydney. We’re talking about beautiful creations by the talented @stephwoon, (not so) new products by Uncle Tetsu, and a few other sugary tidbits from various other locations – it was after all, Christmas (fatmas)! Fortunately, I did occasionally manage a savoury meal or two – read on for the full slice!
Locations Visited: Uncle Tetsu’s, The Morrison’s, Devon Cafe at Barangaroo, The Q on Harris, Rustic Pearl
Ethical eating. Sustainable agriculture. Farm to Table. Concepts with which we are all intimately familiar. This is not a fugacious trend, these concepts cannot be reduced to a set of transient hashtags. Merivale and Danielle Alvarez know this – taking two years to shape the embodiment of these values into one of the hospitality group’s biggest projects yet – Fred’s.
Let’s face it – life’s short. In between full-time work, having a social life, travelling and of course – eating, there can only be so much time for the blog. Sure, there’s my Instagram account which covers material I might not otherwise blog, but the reality is I want to share all my discoveries with my readers. Time is however, a luxury. Thus, going forward, I’m introducing a new series called “Quick Bites”. Read on to find out more!
In Sydney, it’s quite often the case that serving great food just isn’t enough to guarantee a restaurant’s success. If you don’t already command a strong name for yourself, then it’s time to take some risks. How about a restaurant that does away with red meat entirely, focusing purely on catches from the sea? That’s Saint Peter’s game.
How do you like your buns, hun? While the rest of Sydney’s burger community never-endingly debates the pros and cons of brioche, milk and heck even ramen buns, Chase Kojima (of Sokyo fame) just threw a new carby spanner into the works with the unveiling of Gojima – say hello to Sydney’s first dedicated rice burger restaurant!
Nick Smith isn’t your everyday chef. Nobody would think to put a motorcycle workshop and a restaurant under the same roof. Most would also not expect that such a restaurant would be serving pan-Asian cuisine. That such a restaurant would call ramen its signature dish – and living up to it – was the biggest surprise of them all. Enter the Rising Sun Workshop.
Date Last Visited: 27/11/2016 (1st visit 19/11/2016)
Address: 1c Whateley Street, Newtown, Sydney, NSW
Go-to Dish: The Darkness ramen
Price Guide (approx): $15-20pp
“Fine dining, without the pretension” – that’s the philosophy of Bouche on Bridge. A focus on produce, core ingredients, and exceptional cooking without overt complications round out the package. Head chef Harry Stockdale-Powell’s ostensibly got the chops for it too – having worked at both Marque and Rockpool. Looks like it’s time to head back to Bridge St for something that isn’t Eleven Bridge and see what “no fuss fine dining” is all about.
Date Last Visited: 23/11/2016 (1st visit 29/10/2016)
Address: 6 Bridge St, Sydney NSW 2000
Go-to Dish: eschallot tarte tartin (if you like onions a lot)
Price Guide (approx): $80-$100pp plus drinks
Michelin-starred, UK celebrity chef Jason Atherton knows a thing or two about running a restaurant. Chippendale’s Kensington Street Social isn’t his 2nd, 3rd, or even 4th restaurant – no, it’s his fifteenth. With this level of experience in flipping tables, one would expect seriously tasty fare.
I’ll just out this right now with two visits under my belt: you will not want to be social with your food at Kensington Street Social.
Date Last Visited: 6/11/2016
Address: The Old Clare Hotel, 1 Kensington Street, Chippendale, Sydney
Price range: $20-$40
Heard of Devon on Danks? It was a cafe that served truly unique food that was always invigoratingly different to what anyone else was doing in Sydney – despite the occasional failed experiment. With over ten separate visits, I literally can’t name another cafe more frequented. Imagine my devastation then, when Devon on Danks announced its closure after its two or so years at Waterloo. With its lease up, it was time to shut its doors.
But thankfully, the winds of up-and-coming Barangaroo were blowing – and now, after a wait that thankfully wasn’t too long, Devon at Barangaroo has opened its doors.
Date Last Visited: 18/11/2016
12/11/2016 (soft launch – official launch 14/11/2016)
Address: Barangaroo Reserve (turn right when you hit the David Jones facing the water)
Price range: $15-$30