This post is based on an independently-paid visit to Ramen Ichibandori
Ramen in an omakase? There are no rules. Omakase, after all, only means ‘[I’ll] leave it to you’; its sushi connotation is purely a by-product of frequent association. But if that’s the preconception you harbour when booking yourself in for Ramen Ichibandori’s omakase, it may be to your advantage: because this is going to be unlike any other omakase you’ve had in Sydney.
Every Sydney Japa-foodie has heard of Ichibandori. Started by Tomoyuki Matsuya (ex-Hana Ju-Rin) and Hideto Suzuki (ex-Manpuku), it attracted an instant cult following with its late-night ramen offerings which – according to hearsay at least – are arguably some of Sydney’s most refined.
If you know the backstories of the chefs, you’d know that with this new venture comes with it great change for the chefs, though possibly much more so for the former sushi itamae. This is perhaps the Japanese equivalent of Western fine dining chefs ditching the tweezers for the griddle (hint: I’m talking about the ‘fancy burger’ revolution that defined the last decade), after all.
But the heart wants what it wants: it’s hardly surprising that it only took a few months for Matsuya to feel the clarion call of omakase once more, and like a true master of his own destiny, he acted on the impulse and began serving omakase once more at Ichibandori during off-peak weeknights.
What was surprising was just how much has changed between my last omakase at Hana Ju-Rin in 2016 and now. I was kind about that experience in terms of my language back then, but the truth was in between the lines: too much white fish, too much shiso – too much same same. I wasn’t a fan, and I never made a second visit. But now? It’s almost as if hidden shackles that had constrained Matsuya back then had been unfettered: it’s the most unique – and perhaps even whackest – omakase in Sydney.
Of course there’s Matsuya’s sushi (which is now much better), but the delights are in the seemingly random: vegetable courses with the power to convert haters, seafood surprises such as a butter-poached & grilled abalone that was ‘I want what she’s having’ delicious, and even a play on the final hand roll – commonly tuna, seen at the end of many an omakase, here with juicy Kagoshima wagyu instead.
Ultimately, like the homey izakaya vibe of the restaurant, so too your expectations must correspond: expect something like Sokyo and you will be disappointed. Take Matsuya’s omakase for what it is: his very own passion project, served course by course. But I have to say, with Ichibandori’s now-famous ramen in mini size as one of the courses in the omakase, the transformation is complete: Matsuya unleashed.
A note for completeness: there was also an unpictured dessert of houjicha daifuku w/matcha roll cake & anko, made by Matsuya-san’s wife.
For a different experience that shares Ichibandori’s irreverence towards the traditional notions of what omakase ‘should’ be, try Sushi E.
Date Last Visited: 10/Dec/2019
Address: Shop 4/81-91 Military Rd, Neutral Bay NSW 2089
Price Guide (approx): $165pp (for omakase)
This post is based on an independently-paid visit to Ramen Ichibandori
Ups:
- The rebirth of Tomoyuki Matsuya’s omakase combined with Ichibandori’s strong suits makes for a one-of-a-kind omakase.
- BYO!
Downs:
- As the restaurant’s primary purpose is to be an izakaya, the high benchtops and standard table setting means that there is a physical disconnect between the diners and the action. Matsuya is unable to serve you over this counter and thus must walk over. It simply doesn’t feel the same.
Pro-Tip:
- Omakase is only available Monday and Tuesday nights. Bookings essential. If you’re after Ichibandori’s regular offerings, don’t show up on these two days!
Would I return: yes
F7 | S4 | A1.5
7/10 Caesars
See how I score here
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