In November 2019, I took my parents to Japan for their first time – and my seventh – over two weeks. This series is to be read as a diary, and serves as a place to showcase the pictures taken and preserve the memories made.
There is much about ourselves we can learn when we observe the moon. When it is full, it is dazzling, clear and pure, as is our mind when in a state of harmony. But as the moon changes phases with the passing of days, so to do our ever mercurial minds. To understand this is to divine one of the many teachings of Shingon (Japanese esoteric) Buddhism, where the lessons are inferred and implicit, never taught or explicit – and always hark back to nature.
And boy, is nature in its element in Kōyasan.
Date of trip: 14/Nov/2019 – 28/Nov/2019
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All experiences – food, accommodation and activities in this post were independently paid for.
Series Contents
Japan Day 4 – Kōyasan / Mount Kōya
Took a short hike up from the edge of the Kōyasan plateau and took in some views of Wakayama Prefecture. 
At this point, you’re probably getting sick of all the autumn foliage: I think you’ll change your tune if you find yourself here during this time! 
So red it almost looks photoshopped. In fact, I actually had to bring down the saturation of several photos otherwise they’d simply look too unreal. Yeah, Japan huh. 
It is certainly odd that I prefaced this entry with an unusually religious bent, but who writes about St Peter’s Basilica or the Hagia Sophia without a reference to their underlying meaning? But even if Buddhism isn’t your particular sutra, Kōyasan (or Mt Kōya – 高野山) – the ecclesiastical centre of Shingon Buddhism – also happens to be one of Japan’s most remarkable sites in general. To wit: even as an atheist, I’ve visited no less than three times.
Located in Wakayama Prefecture, Kōyasan refers to both the name of the temple settlement founded over 1200 years ago by the monk Kūkai (AKA Kōbō-Daishi – who needs an entire article to himself), and the 800m-above-sea-level plateau bordered by eight mountain peaks said to resemble a lotus plant. That last one’s a bit of a stretch – for the life of me I can’t visualise it – but like most apocryphal origin stories, it’s certainly is alluring.
Given its isolation, natural beauty – especially during autumn – and the plethora of spiritual sites, one can’t help but feel a tingle of something greater, especially after experiencing one of Kōyasan’s temple stays. Known as shukubō (宿坊), this is the traditional lodging method for pilgrims making their way here. If you’ve ever stayed at a ryokan, shukubō will be very familiar: Japanese-style (washitsu) rooms, an elaborate breakfast & dinner service, and quite often, a relaxing hot spring bath (onsen). The difference is that your meals will be fully vegetarian. Obviously. Again, if you’ve had even some experience with Japanese cuisine, you’ll know that this is in no way a disadvantage.
I’m not even sure if Kōyasan has accommodation that isn’t shukubō, but I strongly suggest you don’t do standard hotels or hostels here if your budget can afford it. A visit to Kōyasan is synonymous with a temple stay here, a yin that should not be separated from its yang.
Dinner may be vegan, but don’t be food – shojin ryōri is anything but austere – what’s pictured isn’t for two people; it’s actually all for one! 
Think of it as an all-in-one kaiseki, though I’ll admit, the absence of meat meant that even this volume of food was only juuuuust satisfactory. 
Breakfast. They don’t skimp!
The morning Goma Fire Ritual (goma taki). This is a ritual only practised by the Shingon Buddhist sect, so is quite rightly recognised as one of its defining ceremonies. 
Goma taki involves burning wooden paddles with prayers written on them as monks chant sutras. The aim can be quite ironic – to perhaps Westerners at least. The idea is that by burning your wishes written on the wood, you rid yourself of excess desire which allows you to achieve a more simple, austere life. 
The flame gets as hot as it does high!
Ekōin is the best of three temple stays I’ve experienced – it’s the only one I’ve done that’s offered guests viewing of the goma fire ritual, it served some of the best vegetarian I’ve had in Japan, and the Okunoin night tour departs from here. Nuff said! I booked mine – and pretty much every hotel – via hotels.com (affiliate link).
Okunoin (奥の院 – the ‘final’ temple) holds the mausoleum of Kūkai/Kōbō-Daishi, who is said to be in eternal meditation at the very heart of the complex. 
The mausoleum itself is actually inaccessible, but is surrounded by the largest graveyard in Japan. 
Many famous Japanese historical figures are buried here – emperors, shoguns – the closer to Kūkai the better, so it is said. 
The most beautiful part of Okunoin is the Torodo (Lantern Hall), which you can Google, if you really want to spoil yourself. Out of respect, I took no photos. 
Jizō statues (the little guys with the red robes) are fairly common all over Japan but Okunōin has a fairly high concentration of them. They represent many things but often relate to women wishing for fertility/easy childbirth.
Okunoin by night. This is part of a night tour that departs from Ekoin. To think I’d voluntarily go through a graveyard in the dark! 
If you can handle it, I highly recommend it: it was only after taking this tour that I learned so much more about the purpose and meaning behind Shingon Buddhism, and what the cemetary signifies.
In staying only one night, we didn’t have to eat out (and the food, as far as meals go, is defined by its vegetarianism which can be had as part of your temple stay). However, Kōyasan does still have its highlights – mainly around mochi! 
Mochi party! From top to bottom left to right: kurumi kinako (walnut soybean powder); azuki & amazake manju (sweet sake & red bean); kusa mochi (mugwort); yakimochi shiro (white mochi) 
Yakimochi (grilled rice cakes). Goma and yomogi (sesame/mugword) flavours. Pretty ubiquitous stuff all over Japan, but particularly well-known at Kōyasan. Could be that pure water in making the flour – tasted so good!
For me, there is no place in Japan that combines the sense of serenity, beauty and spirituality more harmoniously than Kōyasan. If an atheist like me can derive this level of completeness from a temple settlement – three times, no less – it’s worth considering, no?
Getting here is not as easy as an A to B (instructions here), and the tourist crowds we faced during autumn definitely did put a dent in the tranquil atmosphere. You can try winter for a much quieter, albeit less colourful visit which guarantees you very little crowding. As per one of Shingon Buddhism’s key teachings – there’s a balance to be struck; it’s up to you to find it.
Except the coffee. At $8AUD for an assuredly unbalanced (read: bad) cup, I’m going to say that this is not the place to get your caffeine fix.
This post may contain affiliate links. Purchases made by clicking on an affiliate link may earn a small commission for me, but never at extra cost for you. Please visit the Affiliate Marketing Policy for more information.
All experiences – food, accommodation and activities in this post were independently paid for.